Amongst all the fake flavours at Ambiente Frankfurt 2017 the Umami of Japanese design studio Bouillon was a genuine delight. In 1909 the Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda defined Umami: the fifth taste sense, the savoury, that little touch of sensory magic which enables us to enjoy food rather than simply experiencing it. It also paved the way for Monosodium Glutamate and all those other "flavour enhancers" with which the food industry not only convince us to eat more processed food than is
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